Bushwalking in Croajingolong National Park

Quick Links: Helpful Hints - Track Notes - Hazards - Low Impact Bushwalking

Introduction to Extended Walks in Croajingolong National Park

Croajingolong National Park and the adjoining Nadgee Nature Reserve in NSW is the home of the Wilderness Coast Walk which extends 100 km from Sydenham Inlet in Victoria to Wonboyn in the Nadgee Nature Reserve.

The following track notes describe one 8 day walk from Mallacoota to Nadgee Lake and return, and one 7 day walk from Shipwreck Creek to Thurra River. These two walks are both part of the Wilderness Coast Walk. The walks were conducted in the summer months of January during 2004 and 2005 respectively. Both walks can be done in a shorter time than that described but allowing longer enables much more immersion in the total environment.

Information in this section includes helpful hints, track notes, notes on low impact bushwalking and potential hazards when walking in Croajingolong National Park.

Overnight walks in the area require a permit from Parks Victoria, and New South Wales National Parks and Wildlife Service. In 2006 these permits cost $5 a night and were restricted to 8 in a group, with a maximum of 30 people in the park at any one time. The philosophy of this number restriction is to maintain the wilderness values for people whilst they are in the park.

Before embarking an any walk ensure you get a local update from the National Park Rangers. Information about the amount of rainfall the area has received can have an impact on your water supplies whilst walking. Details on the contact page.

Helpful Hints

• Try and time your beach walking with low tide. It is much easier walking on firm sand when carrying a heavy pack. Consult a tide chart.
• This walk was started near the surf beach at Bastion Point, on the southern end of the Mallacoota Inlet ocean entrance. In January 2004, the ocean entrance was closed by a build up of sand, and so it was possible to walk across it. In other years it is necessary to hire a boat to transport gear across the inlet mouth. Alternately the walk can be started at the NSW end at Merrica River.
• Make sure you take sufficient strength plastic bags to waterproof your pack for inlet crossings.

Maps

Mallacoota - Wonboyn

Cape Conran - Wingan

Wingan - Mallacoota

The Vicmap:Mallacoota Outdoor Leisure Map 1:50 000 covers most of the walks described and is an excellent map.

Track Notes to Extended Walks in Croajingolong National Park

1. Mallacoota to Nadgee Lake (return)

2. Shipwreck Creek to Thurra River

1. Mallacoota to Lake Nadgee Return - Approximately 60 km

Rating: medium to hard

This is a superb walk for indulging in beautiful coastal lakes, extensive beaches, interesting reef life, including the occasional Fairy or Little penguin, coastal islands and amazing sand dunes.

The track notes are from 2004 when the lake entrance to the ocean was closed and it was possible to walk from the surf club at Bastion Point. It was a slightly longer walk than usual as our group had a number of photographers who required extra exploration time with a camera lens.

Day 1 and 2 - Mallacoota to Lake Lake Wau Wauka (2 nights)

Approximate distance 18 km

Starting from Bastion Point at Mallacoota the first day's walk follows the beach in a general easterly direction for approximately 18 km. We started at 6 am to coincide with a falling tide to make it easier to walk along the long stretches of beach. Our first real break came near the beach exit to Lake Barracoota. Originally we were going to stay here the first night but because we arrived here so early we decided to press on to Lake Wau Wauka. By this time, the wind was blowing a gale, luckily from behind us and we looked for a place in the dunes to get out of the stinging wind.

There are two islands which come into view as you progress - a small flat one called Tullaberga and a larger one in the distance called Gabo Island. There are a number of shipwrecks in the area, hence the building of the lighthouse on Gabo. Near Tullaberga Island, west of Gabo Island, close to the beach and quite visible at low tide is the remains of one of these shipwrecks, the Riverina. A steel steamship of 4758 tons, she did a trading run between Sydney and Hobart until she ran ashore in a squall in 1927. However during World War 2, she was used for bombing practice by the RAAF, so only the bow and stern posts are visible at low tide.

Gabo's lighthouse was built in 1862, constructed of pink granite which is local to the island. There is a little penguin colony on the island and occasionally you can see penguins on the surrounding beaches. The area between Gabo and the beach used to be a sand spit in the 19th century and had a telegraph connected to the mainland, hence the name of the point opposite the island - Telegraph Point. You can see one of the old telegraph poles as you descend the sand dunes into Lake Barracoota. Now that sand spit is covered by water.

The remains of the 'Riverina'. Only the bow and stern posts are visible at low tide. It is situated just near Tullaberga Island. Gabo Island is in the background.

This was the longest section of our walk and of course coincided with the heaviest weight of our packs so it was a relief to finally reach the sand spit which indicated Lake Wau Wauka. Most maps show the lake as being further inland than it actually is, although the sand spit at the entrance obviously changes in size from time to time.

The sand spit can be seen from the bottom south-east edge of the lake. We followed the lake edge around until we came to the campsite which is in a stand of coast banksia trees and is well sheltered from the wind. The water from the lake is suitable for drinking after reasonable rains and is beautiful for swimming in.

There is a small depression which has created a swamp towards the back of the campsite which is great for watching birds and jacky lizards. You will also find good examples of the coast beard heath here with its small but very sweet fruits. The lake itself is also great for birdwatching, especially for black swans, plovers, terns and oyster catchers who often gather on the beachward shore at dusk.

Most maps show Lake Wau Wauka as being further inland than it actually is, although there is a large sand spit at the entrance and this obviously changes in size from time to time. This view is from the camp site looking towards the ocean

Using Lake Wau Wauka ( above) as a base camp, we explored the sand dunes which can be seen from the campsite, and up to the rocky reef at Iron Prince. As we looked back towards Lake Wau Wauka, it was also very clear how dominant Howe Hill was in the landscape. We were very lucky to see a Little Penguin on the beach on the way to Iron Prince, however we believed that he may not have been in good health. The reef is worth exploring for its seabirds, crabs and anemones.

Days 3, 4 and 5 - Lake Wau Wauka to the Bunyip Hole (3 nights)

Approximate Distance - 8 km

Make sure you carry water with you. The next reliable water supply is the Bunyip Hole.

Reluctantly leaving Lake Wau Wauka with our packs , we walked along the beach until we reached the reef at Iron Prince. It is approximately another km from Iron Prince until the beginning of Cape Howe reef.

After reasonable rains, at the place where the reef first appears, are several fresh water soaks which run from under the sand dunes. This good drinking water can't always be relied upon however.

It is possible to walk along the reef but with a heavy pack, boulder hopping amongst soft sand is somewhat uncomfortable and can be dangerous It is actually easier to ascend the dunes here, and there are a couple of obvious places where you can do this.

Walking close to the cliff line we followed this until we reached a marker which looked like a large torpedo at Cape Howe proper. This marks the border between NSW and Victoria and is known as Conference Point. There is a small shipwreck just below this marker.

Staying on top of the dunes we headed north, passing some petrified banksia trees as we walked. We continued until we came to a (live) banksia tree line and descended onto rocks at the southern end of a short but beautiful beach.

Walking along this beach until almost the end we saw a wooden marker which was a sign to follow the track into the bush and over a small but short, steep hill. We came out to a stand of melaleucas and a waterhole, known as the Bunyip Hole. The track to the right continues onto Nadgee Lake. The track around to the left offered excellent protected camping sites.

This waterhole is quite small and shallow, so we took great care to keep it clean. It's a great place for frog watching. Three different species were easily found. Birds of prey often drink from here, especially early in the morning.

There is so much to see and do around here we ended up spending 3 nights at this campsite. After setting up camp we headed back down to the beach to be greeted by the largest lace monitor (goanna) I have ever seen! The area is alive with reptiles including red-bellied black snakes around the waterhole, skinks amongst the rocks around the reef and jacky lizards in the back of the dunes.

Cape Howe consists of sand dunes over underlying rock and reef.

The next day we headed up to Lake Nadgee. From the Bunyip Hole there is a track heading up over the headland through Endeavour Moor. It passes through some beautiful heathland and from the highest point of the track there are spectacular views back across to the dunes of Cape Howe. There are also rocky cliffs. The track can be a little overgrown in places so we wore long sleeves and pants to protect against the hakea and banksia. The water in Lake Nadgee is often brackish, so we didn't rely on that water but took it from the Bunyip Hole. It's about 5 km return to the lake, making a good day's excursion with plenty of time to explore.

Day 6 and 7 - Bunyip Hole to Lake Barracoota (2 nights)

Approximate distance 15 km

This is along days walk retracing the more leisurely path taken on the outward journey. We timed the walk with low tide as there is a lot of beach walking on the return journey. Water was available again at Lake Wau Wauka. After passing the wreck of the 'Riverina', we had to walk about a kilometre and a half to where a large wooden pole marks the entrance off the beach into the sand dunes into Lake Barracoota. These dunes must be climbed over to reach the lake. The track follows these dunes for approximately one km inland. As we approached the last of the dunes we were high enough to be afforded a spectacular view over the lake system of Barracoota with Howe Hill dominating the background. Sea eagles were cruising and the late afternoon light was amazing!

We descended the last steep dune by keeping to the right of another pole which was one of the old telegraph poles which originally connected to Gabo Island. Reaching the bottom, suitable campsites were found to the right and left around the lake edge. Water from the lake was safe to drink.

A rest day on the second day here, exploring the lake on li-lo's or swimming is a great idea!

By this time I had run out of film and our party continued the last leg of our trip back to Mallacoota.

Day 8 - Lake Barracoota to Mallacoota - 11 km

Return to Mallacoota

2. Shipwreck Creek to Thurra River

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Hazards in Croajingolong National Park

Remember you take personal responsibility for the use of any information on this website.

Finding water on extended walks can sometimes be a problem especially during summer. Water sources which were fresh one year can change to being brackish in another year. Occasionally waterholes and small creeks can dry up altogether. Make sure you carry sufficient water with you at all times. Phone the Ranger Station at Cann River or Merimbula for an update.

Take extreme care when crossing water inlets especially Wingan Inlet (cross at low tide) and Mallacoota Inlet.(Most of the time water transport has to be arranged at this inlet). Tidal inlets can be extremely dangerous after heavy rain or storms.

Most of the roads in the national park are dirt. After rain, the roads can be very slippery. Modify your speed to suit the road conditions. Patches of sand can be encountered. Take care not to get bogged.

You will be driving through quite dense forest in this park. Take care with fallen trees on the road, especially during strong winds or storms.

Take care not to collide with animals especially between dusk and early morning. There are large numbers of kangaroos, wallabies and wombats in the park.

The walks described here involve walking along exposed beaches and sand dunes.. There is always a wind blowing which gets stronger in the afternoon. Wind can whip up the sand which stings any exposed skin (including the eyes). Make sure protective, warm clothing is worn.

Sunburn is one of the major hazards of walking in this area exacerbated by reflection from the sand and water. Wear a hat, cover up arms and legs and use a 30+ sunscreen.

Wear supportive shoes/boots which will help your back and legs, especially when walking on soft sand and rocks.

Focus on where you place your feet and hands. Snakes are common around wet areas and long grass, You may want to consider wearing gaiters. I have seen many brown, tiger and red-bellied black snakes in this park.

Take great care with fire in summer. If you must make a fire, keep it small and never leave it unattended.

© 2006 - Sharon Fulcher - WalksAustralia.com